
Richard Upjohn’s Church
Richard Upjohn (1802–78) established his reputation as designer of Trinity Church (1839) at the head of Wall Street in New York City. He has been described as having been less an architect who happened to be an Episcopalian than an Episcopalian who happened to be an architect. The devout designer became the nation’s leading proponent of Gothic Revival architecture for churches, harking back to medieval cathedrals but in a form termed Ecclesiological Gothic, intended to purify Gothic by applying principles of the earliest Christian churches.
One such reform tenet was that the apse of a church point east so the congregation would face the rising sun, symbolic of Christ as the deliverer of new light, even though a dramatic exterior entrance may have to be sacrificed. St. Mark’s was being built across from Travis Park on the south. Thus the drama of a main entrance would be diminished by having to be part of the south side of a church that must be oriented to the east. St. Mark’s would not have a dramatic front tower facade such as that of a similarly designed but larger Upjohn church of the same period, Grace Episcopal Church (1856) in Utica, New York. For nearly a century St. Mark’s would have to make do without a tower at all, its bell hung instead in a more economical if distinctive stone bell cote rising above the sacristy.
St. Mark’s differs from other major Upjohn churches in a more significant way. For his churches the architect preferred narrow lancet windows, which not only limited interior light to enhance a sense of reverence but also helped keep in heat in cold weather. San Antonio’s hot summers presented the opposite situation. Thus for the nave of St. Mark’s Upjohn designed broad windows, each comprised of three sections below quatrefoil groupings separated not by mullions of the apparently intended stone but of more economical cypress.
Below the sills were three narrow openings equipped with wooden louvers that could be opened for cross ventilation at the level of the pews, coincidentally providing an unusual lightness in the interior. Following installation of ceiling fans and air conditioning the deep lower openings were eventually sealed, and now enclose columbarium niches.
Otherwise, the exterior of the church is Upjohn’s vintage Gothic Revival. Simple walls of locally quarried ashlar limestone blocks are supported by narrow buttresses topped three-fourths of the way up by angled stone caps. Buttresses nearest the apse were made deeper to enclose flues for interior stoves, and originally had ventilating cupolas. Doorways and windows were framed in refined cut-stone sills and hood molds.
Inside, the church has a basilica plan. Pews on either side of a central aisle are flanked by side aisles and then narrower rows of pews along exterior walls. Upjohn’s characteristic steep gable roof over the nave is supported as it breaks to a lesser pitch at the sides by slender octagonal wooden columns that support Upjohn’s characteristically dramatic timber arcading and trussing, which encompass numerous quatrefoil designs.
Similar trussing converges over the seven-sided chancel, its five narrow lancet windows symbolizing Christ and his evangelists. The St. Mark’s chancel represents a midpoint in Upjohn’s evolving design, between the flat chancel of Trinity Church and the deep chancels of his churches after the 1860s which could accommodate large choirs.
Upjohn’s firm also designed a line of ecclesiastical furniture. The substantial original walnut rector’s and bishop’s chairs in the chancel at St. Mark’s resemble those designs, but cannot be conclusively linked to Upjohn. The carved walnut altar was added in 1881, the black walnut lectern with its carved eagle in 1894. The three-panel Gothic reredos atop the altar was carved by Charles Werner in 1905. Decorative parquet flooring in the chancel was laid in the 1880s. The raised mahogany pulpit was carved by the fifth rector, Walter R. Richardson.
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